In continuing with the Valentine's Day theme, now I'd like to show some of my favorite origami flowers.  Without further adieu here are some of my favorite to fold and give:
This is a common origami flower, the Iris.  Its a traditional model, so the diagrams can be found in many places.  I first learned it in the excellent book The Magic of Origami.  The model by itself is very fun to fold, nice and simple, but at the same time seems to lack a certain completeness that some origami flowers lack.  I took this model a step further for my wedding reception.
Here is an incredible picture taken by my wife's uncle (who is a fantastic photographer) at our wedding reception.  With the help of my wife and mother-in-law I was able to get the leaves looking good and have the whole centerpiece looking really good for the tables.
This is another favorite and common flower (also a traditional model).  The tulip is the first flower that I learned how to fold.  Having never had any experience with origami and thanks to the very basic instructions that I had, it took me a while to get this model down.  I first picked up origami by purchasing a small kit with paper and hard to read instructions on a trip to Hawaii with my family.  This was one of the models diagrammed in that kit.  Here is a link to instructions very similar to the ones I first learned from here :)  As with the origami Iris I've taken this model and attached it to a piece of wire with paper leaves and wrapped them in floral tape making it a little more realistic.  Sadly, I can't find any pictures of these flowers fully assembled :(
This model is a really fun one for beginners to learn, the Tulip.  The flower portion was designed by Makoto Yamaguchi with the leaf portion designed by Kunihiko Kasahara; found in the awesome beginners book The Magic of Origami.  The Tulip itself is based on the water bomb model, with a simple twist.



This model was designed by one of the great authors of Oriland, Katrin Shumakov; the model is a Matthiolis Bicornis.  If you've never had the opportunity to visit their website, its incredible.  The site is http://www.oriland.com/.  I love the diagrams that Katrin and Yuri Shumakov create, they are very detailed.  I've got 3 of the cds that they sell at their website; I love everyone of them.  This flower model is found the Origami Land cd.  I highly recommend their work.

Here is another angle of the Matthiolis Bicornis by Katrin Shumakov.  Its such an incredible model and its hard to appreciate it from just one angle.  One difficulty with this model is that the center point of the paper has a lot of folds going through it and gets a lot of movement; its easy for the paper to get a hole worked in the middle of it.  Thankfully, you can't see the hole that I worked in this flower from these pictures :)
This model is titled the Rose Brooch, designed by Toshie Takahama.  The diagrams for the model are found in The New Origami by Steve and Megumi Biddle.  Not a terribly difficult model to fold, but not completely basic; which makes it really fun to fold.  When folded from origami paper the has colors radiating from the corners (such as here) it looks a lot better.
This incredible model was designed by Valerie Vann, titled the Magic Rose Cube.  In this form, the model looks fairly plain.  From the picture you can't see that the other 3 sides of the cube are green.  The next picture shows how neat the model truly is.
Here is the model opened.  I absolutely love this model for the angular look, but still looking so much like a rose.  There is a video showing how to fold each of the 6 pieces and how to assemble them here.  Side story:  I work with one of the youth classes in my church team-teaching each week.  I love working with the kids and especially enjoy bringing origami to them for them to pick through and enjoy.  Last week I had one of these cubes in the mix and one of the girls picked it out thinking it was just a neat box.  After I showed her what it did, her face lit up and she was all the more excited to have picked it :)
This last flower is easily the hardest to fold (of the flowers featured here), but I also think is the most rewarding once done.  This is the Rose by the great Toshikazu Kawasaki; the diagram can be found in the book  Origami for the Connoiseur by Kunihiko Kasahara and Toshie Takahama.  The book is definitely one for the more advanced folder, as is this model especially.  With some practice, and probably a couple of attempts, it is possible to fold it though; and extremely rewarding when done.
Here is another shot of the same model to give a better look at the side.  I used an 8 inch sheet of colored copy paper to fold to get this size.  Visually speaking, this is my favorite flower to fold because it looks so amazing when done.  I love it.
 Origami flowers are every even more popular and prevalent than origami hearts.  They are fantastic to fold and give as a gift, especially for Valentine's Day, because unlike real flowers they don't wilt and die.  (Granted a paper flower doesn't have the aroma of a real one :)

This was a glimpse into what I enjoy giving for Valentine's Day each year.  I'll close with some further links to the books and diagrams that I mentioned.  Until next time, Enjoy!

The Magic of Origami (the Iris and Tulip models)














Again the link to the origami Tulip here.

The link to Oriland and the page for the Origami Land cd.

The New Origami (the Rose Brooch model)














The video showing Valerie Vann's Magic Rose Cube here.

Origami for the Connoiseur (the Kawasaki Rose)

With Valentine's Day about a month away I've been practicing some of the heart and flower models that I love to fold and give away.  Here I'll show my favorite heart-shaped models.  There are entire books on heart-shaped origami, so this is but a small sample of what's out there.  But these are some of my favorites:

This first model is a letterfold.  I love letterfolds; they're a fun way to pass a small note to someone.  This one is particularly fun since its heart-shaped, making it a great way to give a love note to someone for Valentine's Day.  (You could even put something a little more sappy on the front instead of "open me"; something to the effect that the giver of the note is opening their heart to the receiver :)
Here is the heart-shaped letterfold opened up.  This model was designed by Alice Gray and Michael Shall.  The diagram can be found in the book The Magic of Origami by Alice Gray and Kunihiko Kasahara (with cooperation of Lillian Oppenheimer and Origami Center of America). 
This model is called 'Change of Heart'.  When dining out and leaving a tip for the waiting help, I always enjoy folding the tip into something fun.  This is a fantastic model because a US quarter fits into the center perfectly.  I can't remember exactly where I got the PDF form of the diagram that I have, but this model is found in several different places on the Internet by searching "Change of Heart Origami".
This model is called 'Double Heart' and designed by Steve Biddle.  It can be found in the book Essential Origami: How to Build Dozens of Models From Just 10 Easy Bases by Steve and Megumi Biddle.  Its folded from a single sheet of square paper with no cutting required; one of the reasons I love this model so much.  The folds are very basic and simple, making it a great model to start with and learn.
This model is designed by Francis Ow, who has an entire book on origami hearts; he has some incredible models.  The model is called 'Double Hearts'.  Again this is folded from a single sheet of paper with no cutting needed.  The diagram can be found in the book by Steve and Megumi Biddle, The New Origami.

This model is also designed by the great Francis Ow and the diagram can also be found in The New Origami by Steve and Megumi Biddle.  Its titled 'On The Wings of Love'.  This model is probably the most difficult of the ones I've shown here, but still not terribly hard; the wings being the hardest part. 

Here is a shot of the origami heart collection just shown to give a size comparison.

 I love giving origami for any occasion, and Valentine's Day is a great opportunity to do just that.  Enjoy :)

Here are some further links to find the books or diagrams to the models:

The 'Valentine Letterfold':














A video for the 'Change of Heart' can be found here.

'Double Heart' by Steve Biddle:














'Double Hearts' & 'On The Wings of Love' by Francis Ow:




In one of my previous posts about origami sonobe balls I posted a picture of how I had used some of the balls that I had folded as Christmas tree ornaments.  The post is here.  The tree is made from regular poster board that you can find at just about any store that sells any kind of office supplies (I've found it in grocery stores and pharmacies as well as the more conventional stores like Walmart).  It had its own challenge in folding due to the fact that poster board does not fold nice and neat.  I had to score all of the folds before trying to manipulate the poster board.  Smaller trees made from colored copy paper are much easier to make and work with (but substitute poorly in replace of a traditional Christmas tree :)  I recently had someone post that they would love to know how to fold this model (they also pointed out that there are conveniently 24 compartments & a star on top that would work great for an advent calendar leading up to Christmas).  Since I've been thinking of posting a tutorial on how to fold something, this seemed like a great time to do it.

Please note:  I did not design this model.  Please do not give me credit for the design.  Credit should be given to Rae Cooker (USA) and Makoto Yamaguchi (Japan), who apparently both developed this model independently of one another.  The book that I learned it from is The Magic of Origami by Alice Gray and Kunihiko Kasahara with cooperation of Lillian Oppenheimer and Origami Center of America.  This book is fantastic for beginners, it was one of the first books I got.  It has a fairly decent range of very simple to a little more challenging models for those just learning.  It has models just for show and aesthetics as well as functional models to play with and decorate with.  An excellent book for learners.  So, here goes my first attempt at an origami photo tutorial.

To begin, you will need 7 different sheets of paper.  For the tutorial I'm using white for ease of photographing, this will be the trunk and so should be out of either brown or black (I've never found brown copy paper, so I use black).  The remaining 6 sheets should be varying sizes.  For the trees I make I start with an 8 inch piece of paper and go down 1 inch for each additional sheet; so here I have an 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3 inch squares of paper.  Also, the largest green square and the square used for the trunk (the white sheet here) are the same size - 8 inches.  Note: any number of green sheets can be used, I am using 6 for the benefit of giving 24 compartments for an advent calendar.
We start with the largest green square.  The dotted lines indicate a valley fold while the solid lines indicate mountain folds.  A valley fold is created by folding the sheet of paper and then unfolding it.  As it sits on the table the paper should slope up as it moves away from the fold; thus creating a "valley".  The reverse is true with a mountain fold.
This next step is often called the preliminary base or bird base in origami books.  The easiest way to describe it is that all 4 corners of the square come to the same point when folding along the pre-creased lines. 


Here are 2 more pictures to try to help show what you should have.
The next step is to add a valley fold that goes between the center and the lower right edge.  Also notice that a valley fold is turned to a mountain fold that extends from the center and goes to the right corner.  The stars in this picture are to help illustrate the next step.
From the last picture, lift only the top layer of paper and move it to the right.  The 2 stars should touch; using the fold lines that were just created take the bottom star and lay it on top of the star to the right.  This should be the result.  Notice that there is now a small triangular flap created; my fingers are touching it.
In this step the small triangle flap is then tucked down and away into a pocket.  Notice the stars are no longer visible.  This step is a little difficult to show in a picture.  In the picture 2 steps up there was a valley fold that was changed into a mountain fold.  The triangle flap will slide into a pocket by means of those folds.  After completing this step, perform the same steps on the remaining 3 flaps to create and tuck away the small triangle flap (or in other words, repeat the last 2 steps again on each flap).
This is what the model looks like with 2 flaps tucked away.


This is what the model looks like with 3 flaps tucked away.

This should be the result once all 4 flaps are tucked away.  This is the bottom of the model.  Notice that there are now 2 pockets that are intersecting to form a cross.
This is model as shown from the top.

Now move on to the piece of paper for the trunk.  The pre-crease folds are similar to the first piece, with fewer folds.  Again the dotted lines are valley folds while the solid lines are mountain folds.

Once again bring the 4 corners to the same point to form the preliminary or bird base.

At this point, take the right flap and create a valley fold.  This is done by taking the top edge of the flap and laying it along the center line.  Repeat on the remaining 3 flaps.  Notice that flap on the left has a mountain fold when looking at the model from this angle.

This should be the result after the valley fold on the right flap.

This is the result with all of the flaps folded into the center.

The next step adds a valley fold by taking only the bottom flap and folding it up along the edge of the previous step.  Also, add a mountain fold that extends from the center vertical line to the lower right edge.
This picture shows the pocket that will be used in the next step.  The mountain fold in the previous step will be used to create a flap that is tucked into this pocket.

Here is an intermediate picture of tucking the triangle flap into the pocket.

This is the end result with the flap tucked in.  Repeat on the remaining 3 layers.

This is a picture of all 4 layers tucked in, looking at the bottom.

A picture of the top of the trunk piece.

Here is the bottom of the largest green piece and the top of the trunk piece.  Notice that looking down on the top of the trunk piece it forms a cross or a plus symbol ("+"), and that looking at the bottom of the green piece it has a corresponding shaped pocket.
Here is a picture of how the trunk inserts into the bottom of the largest green piece.  Insert is as far as needed for the desired look.

Here is what the trunk and first piece look like standing up.

After folding the remaining green pieces it is ready for final assembly.

Start with the next largest green piece and insert it on top of the tree that has already been put together.

This should be the result with all the pieces assembled.

This is the result of the tree standing.  The height can be varied a great deal simply by pushing the pieces together or pulling them apart.
Here is another picture with a black trunk and a star on top.  Note:  The star pictured here is also found in the same book, The Magic of Origami it is folded from a pentagon of paper, not a square.
 A few years ago I was asked to make center pieces for a church Christmas party and was glad to oblige.  Here a couple of pictures from that.  Several of the people asked if they could take them home and so I didn't come home with any of them.  That was fine by me because I love sharing what I make.

Here are all of the individual pieces folded and arranged before assembly.

Here is a picture of the completed trees arranged to look like a little forest. 
Well, I wish you luck with attempting this model, its a really fun one to fold.  As this was my first attempt at a tutorial, I hope it was sufficiently clear and helpful.  Please let me know if it is confusing or unclear at any point.  If you have any questions or run into problems, feel free to leave a comment and I will help in any way that I can.  If it turns out that this was a poor tutorial, maybe I will have to do a video showing how to do this; just let me know.

Once again, the book that I got this from is a great book to start learning.  Even if you're fairly experienced, its still has some really fun models in it to try.  Enjoy :)

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